Interview with Chef Craig Deihl of Cypress in Charleston, South Carolina and a recipe for Crisp Wasabi Tuna
When the media became aware of his Charcuterie and he began what is essentially a Charcuterie CSA (Community Supported Agriculture), the curiosity set in and everyone wanted to see what was going on at Cypress. Deihl says that he has devoted these last 4 1/2 years to not just doing Charcuterie, but doing it better than anyone else and he believes he has achieved that. Perhaps his place in the finals for the James Beard Foundation awards affirms that.
Chef Deihl was the first chef in over 100 years to cook the rare American Guinea Hog. As he says, fat is what makes food taste better and this particular type of heritage pig is quite fatty.
This chef believes that fat is also better in beef and makes guests happier when they have a great steak that is well marbled. Much of today’s grass fed beef is lacking that marbling and the taste is being rejected by many consumers. He says that we have lost the art of making truly good grass fed beef. Cows, when they are well-taken care of and fed long enough on rotated grass pastures to get inter-muscular marbling, will have a “heck of a steak that is hard to beat”.
“Beef that was grass fed was originally meant to taste a bit gamey and was rich and robust and better for us. It treated our bodies better and was full of Omega-3 fatty acids”. Deihl also said that in braising these meats, the underused portions like shanks and bellies really shine. He thinks that we can certainly raise grass fed beef that will be acceptable to customers, but it will take more experimenting and longer feeding which will impact cost but improve taste.
As a young boy that struggled with High School, Deihl takes his cooking and success very seriously and strives to be the best. He loves what he does and wants people to experience the joy that he has in creating what he calls “well crafted food”. He says that they are really doing something special at Cypress, especially with the addition of the housemade Charcuterie.
“When the fork enters someone’s mouth, it should be an explosion of flavors and the delicateness should shine”. He calls his own cuisine Classic American with new a new fashion that is relatable to the guest. What we find unusual in his cooking is the different flavor combinations. He loves food with incredible flavors, especially Asian foods and influences. These have a rounded flavor profile – hot, sour, salty and sweet. He loves the addition of the “unami bomb” (or savory flavor) that is the fifth taste component. Shiitake mushrooms, soy, dry aged beef or a great Parmesan cheese in his dishes helps to create this last component.
As with every chef we have met, consistency in the food and the service is the key to running a successful restaurant. An Executive Chef cannot always be in the restaurant 365 days a year, although many people have that perception. He said a great staff is critical so that everything runs smoothly and that every dish is prepared with consistency. With a staff of 12 chefs, creating and sustaining the team is a challenge. Diehl says that this becomes even more important as he anticipates being away from the restaurant more in the future.
This chef says he has created “organized chaos” in his kitchen. He has a classic menu, a seasonal menu (that changes every 10 to 14 days), a bar menu and a Charcuterie program that is incredibly labor intensive. He comes up with the ideas and asks his staff of chefs to replicate it.
yum, love that recipe and am definitely making it for the boyfriend when I see him! thanks for sharing, Cypress looks like a great place!
What a great post… I was just chatting with a friend about purchasing grass-fed beef and we were talking about the fat issue (funny, seeing that i don’t eat meat… but, believe me, i get the appeal). Interesting to read the Chef’s take here.
Great piece, Gwen!
Tuna is my husband’s favorite……This looks great and I look forward to trying
this very soon. Beautiful dish! Thanks for another fantastic food blog!
What a beautiful restaurant. Tuna is my hubby’s favorite too (like Jane), I’ll have to try this. That list of ingredients is a bit intimidating though!
Hi Rachel,
Yes, it is a gorgeous restaurant and the food is just as pretty. If you will take the recipe in steps and prepare each sauce separately and set them aside, you will find that it is a very manageable dish. It just takes a bit of organization, but it well worth the effort.
Gwen
What an awesome interview. I need to get to Charleston again (not that I ever need an excuse to visit one of my favorite U.S. cities). I want to make this too. I love how there’s a recipe for an ingredient in the recipe. 🙂
Just so you know, the wasabi powder isn’t in the tuna ingredient list so I don’t know how much I’d need to add to the pineapple juice.
Hi, thanks for the catch! Too much late night typing. 🙂 Yes, there are 4 tablespoons wasbai powder, which I have added to the recipe. It was almost a whole small can of Eden’s Wasabi Powder. i hope you try the recipe. It is fabulous!
Wow. I really loved this interview. As one who “almost” went to culinary school, and oftentimes wonder if I should have… I’m reading this now and thinking to myself, “I could never do what Chef Craig Deihl has done.
That’s a MIGHTY recipe list; but I think I’ll attempt someday.
[K]
Hello,
We visited Cypress on our recent trip to Charleston at a suggestion of my daughters’ boyfriend that loves “good food experiences” as much as we do. We ordered the Crisp Wasabi Tuna and I cannot find the words to describe how delicious this was!! Everything we ordered was fabulous and we actually ordered so much, we had leftovers for the next day; which were as delicious as the first time we ate them. I am SO EXCITED to find the recipe for the Tuna on line….I can hardly wait to try making it myself !!
What a great interview, Gwen. I keep hearing that I need to go to Charleston for the food! That tuna looks to die for!
Your interviews are fascinating! Chef Deihl’s actions and sentiments resonate with me – from the charcuterie program he has instituted to the lost art of raising grass fed beef and that amazing tuna dish! I’ve simply got to get to Charleston! I’m forwarding links to your blog to my son-in-law, formerly of Aujourd’hui at the Four Seasons Boston, who is opening his first restaurant (Catalyst) in August.
Had the crispy tuna last week at Cypress — fabulous! This recipe is not exactly the same but close enough. I liked the presentation of the tuna — two pieces about two inches thick wrapped in phyllo. Can’t figure out how they cooked the phyllo without cooking the tuna! We live on the Spacecoast of Florida with some good restaurants but think we will spend time on the road going to Charleston to eat our way around the city. The other two hits of the evening at Cypress were the sourdough bread and our very personable waitress, Shelley.