Exploring South West England
Traveling Through South West England
What do you imagine when you think of England? For many people, it’s the city of London and Buckingham Palace or Big Ben and London Bridge. Or perhaps, The London Eye, the perfect example of the contrast between the old and the new. I must confess, images of Monty Python come to mind as King Arthur “gallups” on his horse of coconuts while the black knight stands his ground only to keep nothing but his courage. But these comedic scenes are grounded in real history and a history that comes alive when you actually walk the grounds and the castles of noblemen and noble men.
Corfe Castle
England has experienced centuries of war where they were ruled by invaders from the north, south, and east. Romans, Normans, Vikings, and even Venetians once controlled territory in the United Kingdom. Over the years, diversity entered the gene pool as well as impacting the architecture, food, and customs of this galvanized country. Refugees from France, Russia, and Ireland have added their influence to the melting pot. With so much diversity preserved over time, England is sure to excite any traveler, but first you must get out of London, and for us it meant heading southwest…
In 2016, we spent eight days exploring South West England. We stayed in the finest hotels as well as simple inns. We stayed in cities and in the country. We ate at Michelin-starred restaurants, local pubs, and everyday establishments. We met local farmers to learn agriculture and food trends and spoke to modern day artisans (like chocolatiers, distillers, and brewers) to see how old world technique is carried forward.
Will & Hilary Chester-Master – Abbey Home Farm
Our goal was to experience what this part of England has to offer, from the old to the new and from the simplest to the most elegant. We explored some of the oldest relics from centuries ago (such as the Roman Baths, Corfe Castle, The Bristol Old Vic and the ss Great Britain) and some of the newest additions to gain perspective, share our experience and insights with you, and provide guidance for your next adventure to England.
This is the first in a series of articles about that journey.
The Bristol Old Vic
We landed in London at Heathrow and immediately picked up our rental car and drove three hours to the Jurassic Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage site that stretches 95 miles from East Devon to Dorset. This spectacular coastline was formed almost 200 million years ago and features beautiful white chalk downs, limestone ridges and cliffs, and a rich fossil bed along the magnificent beaches. We had lunch plans at the Conservatory at The Pig on the Beach in Studland. A whimsical 23-bedroom country house with impressive gardens, The Pig overlooks the southern terminal point of the Jurassic Coast, Old Harry Rocks.
Gardens at Pig on the Beach
Old Harry Rocks
After lunch, we headed to Swanage, once a seaside resort for the rich and famous of years gone by and now a popular, seasonal tourist resort. We strolled the streets of the town and window shopped at the numerous small businesses. That evening we lodged at The Langton Arms, a traditional thatched roof, 17th century country inn located in the village of Tarrant Monkton and enjoyed dinner in Stables Restaurant, the hotel’s award-winning country pub located in the converted stables, complete with low ceilings and English country flair. Before heading out in the morning, we had the opportunity to explore the surrounding village with its many thatched roof homes and farms.
The Langton Arms
Throughout our journey we met and worked with many of the artisans that make this part of England special. We had the opportunity to create and sample ales and craft beers at Three Daggers Micro Brewery, located in the tony town of Edington. Then we sampled some of England’s most famous brews at Wadworth Brewery and met their magnificent Shire horses that, to this day, deliver the beer on horse-drawn wagons to the various pubs around town. Certainly a sight to behold.
Three Daggars Microbrewery
We were excited to attend several cookery schools and learn how to make traditional English fare. We even made Afternoon Tea fit for the Queen with tea sandwiches and Victoria Cakes at Vaughn’s Cookery School in Devizes, Wiltshire. (We’ll soon be passing along the recipe for these majesty pleasers.) In Bath, we worked with Chef Rachel Demuth at her cookery school. Demuth, a highly regarded chef turned cookery school owner, inspired us with her delicious vegetarian recipes and dishes. To round out our culinary training, we learned to make Fougasse, a delicate bread shaped like a large leaf, at The Bertinet Kitchen, owned by French chef and baker Richard Bertinet. And, of course, we sipped whiskey at the Cotswolds Distillery in Shipston-on-Stour and at Bramley and Gage in Thornbury.
Tea fit for the Queen
We also tasted farmstead cheeses at The Cotswold Cheese Company and visited several farms that are striving to produce high quality products for local consumers. Lastly, we enjoyed an evening of Puds… pronounced poods, Puds is the name given to traditional English dessert puddings and there is no better place to experience Puds than a meeting of The Pudding Club® in the Cotswolds. You can read about our fun evening experiencing The Pudding Club® during our visit to The Three Ways House Hotel in Mickleton, England.
(Photo credit – Lucknam Park)
Our journey started in a small 17th century country inn, The Langton Arms in Tarrant Monkton. A modest but historically significant inn, the property is surrounded by a working farm with sheep and horses that greet you with the morning sun. Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, located in Chippenham, Wiltshire, where we stayed another evening, is a luxurious award-winning country manor house where the horses are for English riding, the restaurant is Michelin rated, and the service is proactive, but never intrusive with true country elegance.
We drove from the countryside to Bath and on to Bristol to experience the comparison of style and architecture at these two cities. In Bath, we stayed at The Queensberry Hotel, a chic city hotel where the people were extraordinarily helpful and the property’s location made walking the city easy, and the hotel was comfortable to return to and relax. In Bristol, a much larger and more modern city with its youthful residents and entrepreneurial spirit, we stayed at The Bristol Hotel, which offers contemporary accommodations for tourists and business travelers alike. Centrally located and surrounded by museums, restaurants, and historic sites, this city is a little more challenging to walk due to the hills and how spread out it is, but the hotel is in an excellent location to find your way back on foot or by public transportation.
The Royal Crescent – Bath
In the Cotswolds, our accommodations were at one of the most unique experiences of our visit, the Three Ways House Hotel (and home of The Pudding Club®) where we had dessert dreams in the Chocolate Suite. Closing out our tour, we returned the car in Yeovil and traveled by train back to London, spending several days exploring the city and changes in its culinary style, and stayed at Rueben’s at the Palace, across from Buckingham Palace and the Royal Muse.
The Royal Muse
Many travelers hold dated views of English food. Mutton, porridge, baked beans on toast, and fish and chips, are a few that come to mind. However, England has gone through a culinary renaissance. Chefs from all over the world have located throughout England and are infusing new flavors and ingredients into the English culinary scene. That’s not to say that baked beans or fish and chips are no longer on certain menus, rather there are many alternative restaurants to choose from that have elevated their cuisine to culinary perfection. Some of England’s avant-garde chefs are serving up their creations in renowned hotels and inns while others have taken their skills to larger cities where the customer’s palate is well-traveled.
We had the pleasure of ordering traditional English Fish and Chips at several pubs, but also enjoyed many excellent dining experiences, such as the dinner at the Olive Tree Restaurant in Bath, where Chef Chris Cleghorn has adopted the farm-to-table concept of sourcing the freshest ingredients in their ever-changing menu at this Michelin star restaurant, the only one in Bath.
We enjoyed exquisite dishes at two Michelin-starred restaurants where the chef’s expertise of preparation and presentation showed on every plate. At the beautiful country manor house, Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa, located in the English countryside and just minutes from Bath, we dined in The Park Restaurant, which is now called Restaurant Hywel Jones, and recently reopened with a total refurbishment.
While in Bristol, we had the pleasure of experiencing Chef Peter Sanchez-Iglesias’ cuisine at his Michelin-star and 4 AA Rosette restaurant Casamia, where he incorporated molecular techniques to add a little drama to the presentation. Unfortunately, that restaurant closed in August 2022. Chef Sanchez-Iglesias recently took over the helm at two Michelin-starred restaurant Gwen in Machynlleth, Wales. And, who could forget the “March of the Puds” at The Three Ways House Hotel in the Cotswolds where English puddings (desserts) are the star of the show and the diners vote on the evening’s best?
Chef Peter Sanchez-Iglesias
From spectacular beaches (Jurassic Coast) to historic sites (the Roman Baths) and old world towns (Cotswolds) and castles (Corfe), to a new age vibe (Bristol), South West England offers numerous attractions beyond food, wine, and spirits. With countless attractions, parks, museums, and sights not-to-be missed, it’s easy to understand why the South West is one of the most popular holiday destinations for the English.
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Disclosure – We worked with Visit Britain on this trip to South West England. As always, the opinions expressed are our own.
