Travel to Lidia’s Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and a recipe for Herb and Wild Greens Fritatta
The two Bastianich vineyards are located in the eastern hills of Friuli. This region is known for its many microclimates. Their original vineyard in Buttrio is situated on the hills in the southernmost area. Standing in the vineyard with rows of grapevines planted on the hillside you can see the Adriatic Sea just 30 miles to the south. Here, the warm sunny days and long growing season ripen the grapes. The second vineyard in Cividale del Friuli is in the foothills of the Julian Alps and is impacted by the north winds, or Bora, as they are called. The climate is cooler and produces wines with a much different profile. Each vineyard is planted with varietals that grow best in their respective vineyards. A future article will go in to more detail about the vineyards and the wines.
Whenever we travel to Europe and to Italy in particular, I am always reminded of the very different lifestyle that exists in other places. The Italians take time to enjoy life. I feel like we (in the United States) are always racing to get ahead. We miss the simple things that life has to offer: good food; great wine; friendship; and idle time to enjoy these things.
Most Italians take two hours out of their day to enjoy lunch. The shops close and the streets are quiet. They take delight in the food, the wine and the company. When was the last time you took the time to do that other than perhaps on vacation? Of course, when you have views of the Alps, vineyards and old cities, it is far more conducive to settling in to a long meal and savoring the moment. Sitting in a restaurant on Broadway (in New York City) or at an outdoor cafe on Peachtree Street (in Atlanta) with cars racing by and horns honking does not have that same effect.
Life seemed less complicated the few days we were in Friuli. We traveled the back roads and watched as people stopped to pick ripe cherries from wild cherry trees. Caught behind a tractor while driving, we did not have the same anxiousness that we experience in the States when a car is traveling too slowly ahead. Surrounded by rolling green hills and vineyards that were glistening from the morning showers, we drank the wine, enjoyed the clean, crisp air and shared wonderful conversation with the people we met.
We enjoyed dishes made with asparagus that grows wild and simply grilled meats that are a specialty in Friuli. We savored the Prosciutto di San Daniele with its unctuous flavor and a hint of sweetness. It paired well with the local Montasio cheese and more intense red wines from the region. Fresh pasta, polenta, risotto and gnocchi were prepared in a more rustic style (like polenta with Montasio cheese). We lingered over each course, sipping wine, soaking in the ambiance and all the while making new friends.
Even breakfast was memorable each morning. Perfect buttery croissants filled with apricot jam, sweet and creamy yogurt served over house-made granola, platters of local cheeses and meats, including Prosciutto di San Daniele. Then there was the melon; that deep orange color that is so unique and so ripe, sweet and juicy with an aroma that filled the room. Food that lifted all the senses and tasted like it should. Smells that will stay with us the rest of our lives, stored deep in our memory to be awakened some unexpected day when we cut open a fresh apricot or slice an Italian melon that will take us back to this place and time.
Wonderful! Mouthwatering! Beautiful pictures. I definitely want to go there.
Glad I read this post after dinner….yummy and delicious.
Looks yummy. We have tried some La Mozza wines at Pizza Mozza in LA and enjoyed them. Looking forward to your next post!
This is one of my favorite regions of Italy. I was talking today with an old friend from Trieste that told me it has seen in increase in tourism the last couple of years (was happy to hear that:). Beautiful photos and I really like the old polenta mill photo. Fantastic fritatta that is a perfect and fun summer dinner for us any night of the week;)
Gorgeous pictures Roger! Wonderful stories Gwen! I want to go back!!!
“The Italians take time to enjoy life. I feel like we (in the United States) are always racing to get ahead. We miss the simple things that life has to offer: good food; great wine; friendship; and idle time to enjoy these things.”
The Italian way of living and eating cannot even be matched in France and it is why we loved and miss living there so much. Your gorgeous photos and your words capture is magnificently! I don’t think I have ever visited Friuli but now I’ll tell husband we must make it our next vacation destination. Wonderful series of posts, Gwen!!
Although I’ve never been to Italy..I will quote my sister who toured Italy and France a few years ago. “I liked Italy so much more than France – the food was exquisite..the people warm, open and friendly – their accents were like music, and the ambiance and beauty, unmatched” I think you captured all of that in this post. Seeing Friuli, Lidia’s Italy…through your lens, is exhilarating. You know what I’m going to say now – bucket list!
Italy is magic, and you captured so much of it that your detailing and images. It’s indeed a special place, and I can’t wait to go back. When I do, will definitely travel northward to Fruili region.
I’m very excited to learn more about the Bastianich wine varietals, and hope to see them here in the States, if not already?
The frittata, bellissimo!
Spectacular photography.
And as for the food, it’s the simple things, done exceptionally well, that make life grand.
I loved your article, and you summed it all up for me in your opening remark about travel.
I was also privileged to stay and eat at Lidia’s in Friuli, and it was the best and original meal I’ve had – and I’ve lived in Italy for the last 3 years, and many other places in the last 30 years.
Keep traveling and eating and writing about it – you do it so well !
I have a wonderful property to sell, 1km from Bastianich winery in Cividale del Friuli. This unique property extends for 2,000 mt. Please feel free to contact me for any info: timberbill@gmail.com
What an amazing experience! I haven’t been here in awhile… James Beard award nominated?! That’s awesome Gwen! I’m so happy to see you’re doing so well!
Hi Julie,
It was so nice to hear from you and yes, a lot of exciting things have been happening here since we last connected. I followed a bit of your new home renovation. I’m sure that’s been crazy, but fun for you. I’m glad to see you back here and I hope you’ll stay in touch!
Best,
Gwen